Stopping off for lunch at Laugarvatn Fontana, home to some fantastic geothermal baths, was an Icelandic highlight.
The cafe is small and totally unassuming. It offers a selection of healthy and locally produced delicacies and refreshments and is nestled into steaming volcanic landscape against a stunning vast lake.
At Laugarvatn, people still bake their traditional Icelandic rye bread in the hot sand by the lake where trout is caught and smoked at a nearby farm. We joined a walk to their geothermal bakery (every day at 11.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m) and watched a demonstration as one of the chefs dug up the freshly baked rye loaf from the hot black volcanic soils. All of us were offered a taste of the bread served steaming from the ground with some butter - a really fun experience.
All the food was lovely, and if we had had more time we would definitely have taken a dip in the spa pools there, all labelled with different temperatures and completely heated geothermally.